Adapted to the hottest reflected heat of walls- parking lot islands. This true dwarf form can be difficult to obtain in the trade. Very pretty focal point in authentic Japanese gardens. Podocarpus macrophyllus also know as Southern yew is a great shrub for fencing but it has some disease that cause Dieback (Botryodiplodia, Botryosphaeria, Ph. An old fashioned plant that we’d like to give a new lease on life. It thrives in high heat and summer is when most of the growth takes place. Tolerates regular irrigation as well and is not fussy about soil. Excellent in containers for year round good looks. Extremely drought tolerant shrub for tight spots. In summer little pointed green flowers protrude from between the needles and turn into round blue fruits by autumn. In our climate it is a slow growing conifer of wonderful texture rarely exceeding 7′ and usually just 3′ wide or less. The deep green needles are much shorter in length and held more densely along the stem. This allows more light to reach the hedge sides prevents it from becoming top heavy and unstable and is easier to maintain.Shrubby Japanese Yew Pine is a dwarf form of what can become a large tree. Hedges should be shaped so they are narrower at the top than the base. The more trimming is done the thicker the hedge will become. During the second winter (or in early spring) trim moderately to remove half the previous seasons new growth.įeed hedges at least once a year with a balanced fertiliser ideally in early spring. They should be cut back by half during late spring and trimmed again lightly in late summer. Young hedges should be pruned in their first year after planting to ensure even dense growth when planted in autumn. Regular pruning will turn your blue totara into a dense compact tree. Check stakes and ties for chafing and constriction and remove as soon as plants are strong enough to withstand winds without damage. The first summer and autumn after planting is critical for young plants water thoroughly during dry periods. Sprinkle evenly and work into the top 2 to 3cm of the soil taking care not to damage surface roots. Except on very fertile soils, an annual light dressing (50g/m2) of general purpose fertiliser in spring is beneficial. Pruning can start in their first year after planting. Keep mulching material away from plant stems. This allows the plant to move a little in the wind encouraging the development of a strong root system without the risk of chafing or root damage.Īpply mulch annually as this will conserve moisture and help suppress weeds. Tie firmly but allow room for the trunk to increase in girth without constriction. If staking is requi red, use wide ties that hold securely without chafing. Another tip is to plant at an angle to induce more lateral growth which will also have a similar effect. They can also be pruned to shape from an early stage and planting a double stagge red row of hedging plants will result in a denser screen. Plant hedging plants approximately 60cm apart and stake if necessary. Plant with some general slow release fertiliser and then every spring apply an organic based fertiliser such as blood and bone at a handful per square metre as new growth begins.įor a hedge plant small grade plants as they establish much quicker than larger ones. Make sure plants are wate red well until established if planting in a drier period. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the root ball and firm in and water once planted. Trim any broken roots and plant at the same level as in the container. Before planting ensure the root ball is saturated and remove the planter bag or pot with minimal root disturbance. Planting success is often improved on clay soils by adding extra topsoil, coarse sand, bark, peat, compost or other organic material and by forming raised beds. This enables them to withstand dry periods during the following summer. Always choose healthy well grown plants and plant after autumn rains when the soil is moist and warm allows trees to become established before winter.
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